LDianeJohnson
07-26-2001, 06:57 PM
Hi Pastel Painters,
In another thread on this forum DFGray prepared a pastel board for his wonderful sailboat piece. I am starting this thread for anyone interested in posting or reading about preparing your own boards in one place.
I like to frame these days using a gold filet and single mat to give it a nice finish. This also greatly reduces residual pastel pastel particles from falling against the glass. After trying many published and unpublished formulas, this is the one I have adapted and been using for several years:
Recipe:
1 1/2 - 2 1/2 cu. gesso
2 - 3 cu. water
2 1/2 cu. ground (quartz, pumice, or other)
Acrylic pigment in desired colors. 1-2 tubes black, and tubes of tinting colors you prefer to make the desired board color.
Other Supplies:
bucket
jar
clean sponge
measuring cup
fresh water
semi-smooth to semi-rough paint roller, perferably wool
large (3-4) house painting brush
For best results, use 100% rag, acid-free, 30x40 - 4 ply museum board. That way, you can cut the finished board to any sizes you prefer. To economize, make several at a time. Or, you may pre-cut the boards.
Set everything up before beginning as once you get started, you must work quickly.
Step 1:
Create your mixture by combining black, 1/2 cu. of the water and shake in a small jar. Add the acrylic colors (using ochre, cad. red, permanent green or other color to warm up the black) then shake the jar till you have the desired color.
Step 2:
Pour color mixture into a bucket and add the gesso to act as the binder. Mix using the large paint brush.
The color will lighten due to the white gesso so adjust the color if necessary by adding more acrylic.
Step 3:
Add the 2 1/4 cu. ground, and more of the water, mixing rapidly till the mixture is the consistency of heavy glue but flows from the brush. Be careful that the mixture is not watery. You may use quartz crystals or ceramic residue as ground and add more if mixture needs thickening. Add water if too thick.
Step 4:
Prepare the board by dampening the back with the sponge and fresh water to prevent buckling. Then wring out the sponge well and apply to the front surface...do not make it too wet. This is just to help the mixture flow onto the board.
Step 5:
Using the large paint brush quickly spread the gesso mixture on the board as the mixture dries rapidly and can streak. Apply enough to give a heavy coat (approx. 1/16). Brush one way in all one direction, then at a 90 degree angle across the board.
Step 6:
Use paint roller over the entire surface, first going in all one direction, then at 90 degrees in the other. Roll only one way and lift the roller, do not roll back and forth or youll risk pulling off the drying mixture.
Step 7:
Attach the board using push pins to a strong surface such as Homosote to prevent warping. Then, allow to dry to the touch, lay flat and place a heavy weight (several layers of cardboard) on top, and allow to fully dry. Store dry boards flat. Cut using an X-acto knife and straight-edge.
You can apply another coat if you wish. Experiment with the mixture to see what works best for you. If you prefer an even heavier tooth, you can sprinkle some of the dry ground on top of the board surface while still wet with the rolled mixture, or use random brushstrokes to apply the mixture.
To use board. Use as-is, or, if the board is too gritty for you, just break the surface very lightly with fine sandpaper. If you use it too heavily you will flatten the surface tooth.
Have fun!
Diane
In another thread on this forum DFGray prepared a pastel board for his wonderful sailboat piece. I am starting this thread for anyone interested in posting or reading about preparing your own boards in one place.
I like to frame these days using a gold filet and single mat to give it a nice finish. This also greatly reduces residual pastel pastel particles from falling against the glass. After trying many published and unpublished formulas, this is the one I have adapted and been using for several years:
Recipe:
1 1/2 - 2 1/2 cu. gesso
2 - 3 cu. water
2 1/2 cu. ground (quartz, pumice, or other)
Acrylic pigment in desired colors. 1-2 tubes black, and tubes of tinting colors you prefer to make the desired board color.
Other Supplies:
bucket
jar
clean sponge
measuring cup
fresh water
semi-smooth to semi-rough paint roller, perferably wool
large (3-4) house painting brush
For best results, use 100% rag, acid-free, 30x40 - 4 ply museum board. That way, you can cut the finished board to any sizes you prefer. To economize, make several at a time. Or, you may pre-cut the boards.
Set everything up before beginning as once you get started, you must work quickly.
Step 1:
Create your mixture by combining black, 1/2 cu. of the water and shake in a small jar. Add the acrylic colors (using ochre, cad. red, permanent green or other color to warm up the black) then shake the jar till you have the desired color.
Step 2:
Pour color mixture into a bucket and add the gesso to act as the binder. Mix using the large paint brush.
The color will lighten due to the white gesso so adjust the color if necessary by adding more acrylic.
Step 3:
Add the 2 1/4 cu. ground, and more of the water, mixing rapidly till the mixture is the consistency of heavy glue but flows from the brush. Be careful that the mixture is not watery. You may use quartz crystals or ceramic residue as ground and add more if mixture needs thickening. Add water if too thick.
Step 4:
Prepare the board by dampening the back with the sponge and fresh water to prevent buckling. Then wring out the sponge well and apply to the front surface...do not make it too wet. This is just to help the mixture flow onto the board.
Step 5:
Using the large paint brush quickly spread the gesso mixture on the board as the mixture dries rapidly and can streak. Apply enough to give a heavy coat (approx. 1/16). Brush one way in all one direction, then at a 90 degree angle across the board.
Step 6:
Use paint roller over the entire surface, first going in all one direction, then at 90 degrees in the other. Roll only one way and lift the roller, do not roll back and forth or youll risk pulling off the drying mixture.
Step 7:
Attach the board using push pins to a strong surface such as Homosote to prevent warping. Then, allow to dry to the touch, lay flat and place a heavy weight (several layers of cardboard) on top, and allow to fully dry. Store dry boards flat. Cut using an X-acto knife and straight-edge.
You can apply another coat if you wish. Experiment with the mixture to see what works best for you. If you prefer an even heavier tooth, you can sprinkle some of the dry ground on top of the board surface while still wet with the rolled mixture, or use random brushstrokes to apply the mixture.
To use board. Use as-is, or, if the board is too gritty for you, just break the surface very lightly with fine sandpaper. If you use it too heavily you will flatten the surface tooth.
Have fun!
Diane