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paintfool
07-13-2001, 01:51 PM
I have no experience with acrylic paint and have to paint a fiberglass horse (Life sized!) which has been primed. Is there a particular type of brush that i should be using for the large areas? Please help! Thanks.
Cheryl

paintfool
07-13-2001, 02:00 PM
http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/13-Jul-2001/Seattledo.JPG I thought it might be helpful to include this. This is the idea for my design. It'll be done on a 6' x 8' fiberglass statue. I'm probably going to have a LOT of questions for you guys! :)
Cheryl

cuttlefish
07-13-2001, 06:37 PM
The Golden Acrylic website has an article on prepping and painting on fiberglass.
http://www.goldenacrylic.com/

I'd suggest some nylon or polyester house painting brushes; whatever is labeles "Best quality for Latex". That should work well for acrylic too. You might also try a foam cigar roller for very broad areas. A foam roller should deform well enough to cover all but the most compound curves. In either case, thin your paint at least to the consistency of heavy cream (unless you want your strokes to show) or even better, use a fluid paint formulation that you can use at full strength without thinning.

You've probably already thought about how you'll complete this project, but here are some of my ideas. Demarcate your color areas with masking tape and paper, slightly violating the areas where you want your black lines. When you remove the tape, you may detect a ridge where the paint met the tape. You can gently sand this down, if you like. Then, stroke in your stripes freehand or with masking, as you prefer.

paintfool
07-13-2001, 07:05 PM
Thanks for the advice Cuttlefish. I hadn't though about the roller but it does sound like the way to go on the background. I pick up my horse tomorrow but got to look at one a few minutes ago and the primer they've used is grey. I think i'll gesso over the entire thing because i bought W&N finity paints and i'm not sure how well they'll cover the grey. Probably fine but since i'm not too familiar with this stuff i don't want to take any chances. As for visable brush strokes or the ridge created by using tape i don't expect any problems because these horses (Public art project) are going to be clear coated with a LOT of whatever it is that they shoot on cars. E-One, manufacturer of fire trucks, has generously donated this service to the project.

Einion
07-13-2001, 11:36 PM
Hi Cheryl, a couple of things I can add to Cuttlefish’s good suggestions. First, in case you’re completely unfamiliar with acrylics, they dry very quickly (literally in minutes in a warm environment) and have a habit of drying down near the ferrule during use, ruining a brush if you’re not keeping an eye out. So it’s often a good idea to clean your brushes (and a roller if you use one) periodically during the painting session instead of only at the end like is common with oils. Synthetic brushes are a good choice for acrylics because they take repeated rinsing in their stride and retain their spring when damp.

I use Finity colours almost exclusively and they’re reasonably opaque (obviously it varies from colour to colour) but I think you’re wise to undercoat in white before you start in with the colour especially since you will probably be thinning the paint to the consistency Cuttlefish recommended. In my hobby I paint over a grey automotive primer and for lighter colours I always paint the area white first.

One last thing, automotive clearcoats are usually lacquer-based and very ‘hot’. They could easily eat into the acrylics and ruin all your hard work! It is possible to coat acrylics with lacquer if it’s done carefully (a number of mist coats before the wet coats) but it might be a good idea to get them to test a small sample before you do the whole project. I’ve read that epoxy coatings are taking over from lacquers in the automotive sector so if they’re using one of these I don’t know if this is as much of a problem so a test is probably a good idea here too.

Hope this helps,
Einion