View Full Version : safflower oil
03-27-2014, 02:24 PM
I have serious doubts about the use of safflower oil in my lead whites (W&N) so I want to find a way to remove the manufacturers oi,l so that I may regrind or mix the pigment with cold pressed linseed oil.
I have a number of tubes of this paint and I'd hate to waste the pigment.
Your question is welcome in this Forum. Do you want it all gone? Why? Those points may help with understanding your purpose.
We have a few members who should be able to add some insight to your situation.
04-03-2014, 07:37 AM
Safflower oil dries only with pigments, which can react with oil and which can form metallic soap. Therefore, Zinc White, Lead White, Umbers, Ultramarines, Siennas, Ochres, Cobalts, Prussian Blue, Viridian, Organic colors with calcium carbonate or and Zinc White in paint formulation, Vegetable charcoal black (due to ash content) e.t.c works perfectly, dries fast and completely. Cadmiums are also perfect, Cadmium is similar to Zinc in chemical properties and those paints dries slowly due to sulfuric content, but completely, due to Cadmium content.
The only disaster can make pure, Zinc-free Titanium, pure fake "Naples Yellow" PBR24, Mica or worst paints without saponification additives in paint formulation.
Note: Alot of "Modern", "Non-toxic", "substitutes" paints do not cure. It becomes "touch dried gel" and after this touch dried constitution those paint can only degrade or decompose and never be normally cured. Three years I tried to do hundred of experiments and the only thing I know now is just four words: - "add Lead or add Zinc". You people you are sure that Cobalt drier can help? Nope. It can only make you paint "touch dried" much faster. I started to do experiments with Copper resinate, which was Renaissance drier, to look how can I push to cure yellow, green and dark paints without adding Zinc-Lead whites. White paint, however can affect dark paints color. The drying properties of oils were completely described by Renaissance masters. All their "stupid' additives are just perfect driers, elasticizes, hardening agents or unstudied paint protectors.
You don't believe? Add 20%-30% of bona fide Zinc White to a worst drying paint and you can discover magically drying effect :D Russian iconography painters said that non-cured paint darkens significantly, bleed and migrate, pigments in non-dried oil reacts with each other. Their experiments can show that even orpiment do not react with lead or copper paints if this paint dries properly. Long time to cure - worst paint you will get finally. Water content in oil medium or oil paint is another way to give a disastrous result. Linseed oil with water or high moisture content do not dries to a gloss film. Water content makes paint film matte, less flexible and less resistant to cracks.
04-03-2014, 06:18 PM
Excellent information Gigalot, thank you.
04-03-2014, 07:40 PM
Actually, a tinny amount of Alkyd makes safflower oil paint film stronger, close to linseed oil paint film. I have several tubes with safflower oil binder. If used properly, those paints can dry fast and well cure. Whites are not problematic, but some beautiful synthetic quins and Naphthols dries to a more soft film. Cadmium red can give them a better drying properties. I didn't test Calcium Carbonate as additive, but one old book don't recommend to use it, said to be calcium carbonate is a paint darkening promoter. They said Kaolin or Barium Sulphate are better.
vBulletin® v3.5.8, Copyright ©2000-2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.