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View Full Version : Modern Color Wheel Exercise (by hand!)


Mythrill
11-17-2013, 07:36 PM
Hi, guys!

Inspired by 0chre's message about gamut masking and after seeing a more advanced color wheel, on this topic:
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1335057 (http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1335057)

I've done the modern color wheel exercise, this time using Phthalo Blue Green Shade (PB15:3,) Quinacridone Magenta (PR122) and Hansa Yellow Medium (PY74) as my primaries for a total of 99 colors! Of course, there are a few twists:
I've blended Phthalo Green Blue Shade (PG7) into the greens to improve the wheel's complementary harmony. Quinacridone Magenta (PR122) mixed with PG7 gives a near-black, and it mixes give far more balanced mixes than any mix of Phthalo Blue Green Shade (PB15:3) and Azo Yellow Medium (PY74) alone would.
Surprisingly enough, PR122 + PY74 does not seem to give oranges and reds as good as PY3 does. I'm puzzled, because PY74 is far closer to orange than PY3 is... I'm going to double-check this.
PR122 shows little difference when mixed with PY74 alone to give a warm magenta (around the color space of Permanent Rose, PV19-gamma.) So, to make the the wheel more spaced and varied, I mixed PR122 + Transparent Red Iron Oxide (PR101) + PY74 to simulate the "rose" gamut.Here are the caveats:
This wheel is weak on the yellow gamut: it does not show the "medium" and "deep" variations of the yellow gamut this combination can generate.
The gamut of "blue-green" was accidentally swapped with the cyan gamut (the "green-blue" gamut is just fine.)
My Evil Camera™, as usual, has distorted very color that has a trace of violet in it. Correcting this distorted the blue and green gamuts. I've tried to add some saturation back, but these gamuts are still not accurate.
I could never really fix the rose gamut (after PR122.) It should be slightly redder and more saturated.
I tried to zoom out, but my lens distort the photo when I do so. I tried to "warp" the color wheel in photoshop to fix it, but it's still a bit distorted (particularly on the left and right sides.)
This wheel has 99 colors because 3 areas of the wheel have 9 values instead of 8. (Sorry, my mistake!)Opainter, you were asking me about Lapis (PB29, natural,) and I happened to find a space in the blue gamut that gives an approximate match. It should be on the blue-violet gamut, value no. 4, from left to right.


As a final remark, any non-primary pigments had their notations grayed out.


Enjoy! :)


http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/17-Nov-2013/96427-Color-Wheel---PB15-3,-PR122,-PY74.jpg

opainter
11-18-2013, 11:22 PM
I decided to take a closer look at some of the colors in your palette. Here's what I found:

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/18-Nov-2013/983189-nice_colors.gif

Patrick1
11-19-2013, 06:29 AM
Nice work. When doing color/hue wheels, I too often make the yellow zone too narrow, so I have to consciously spread it out to show more hues of yellow and less of greens.

Mythrill
11-19-2013, 10:55 AM
I decided to take a closer look at some of the colors in your palette. Here's what I found:

http://www.wetcanvas.com/Community/images/18-Nov-2013/983189-nice_colors.gif
Hi, opainter!

Since this is a color wheel from pure hue to black, the colors, on the average, won't be very saturated. But of course, it can still be useful! Please feel free to pick all the colors you want and modify them to your taste. :thumbsup:

By the way, the "light orange" shade you picked is close to Light Red (PR102) or a mix of cadmium Red Light (PR108) and Opaque Red Iron Oxide (PR101).

Mythrill
11-19-2013, 10:58 AM
Nice work. When doing color/hue wheels, I too often make the yellow zone too narrow, so I have to consciously spread it out to show more hues of yellow and less of greens.
Thanks, Patrick!

Speaking of yellow, for some reason the purest yellow (PY74) seems very "dirty" on the photo, when it's actually very bright in real life. I don't know what happened, but I suppose it has to do with the "rounding" problem of digital cameras (they "round" colors to a certain color space, which is great for automatic portraits and landscapes, but terrible for photographing paintings in general.) I suppose that, since that most colors lean to black, the camera also "rounded" the pure yellow to a darker color.

rltromble
11-19-2013, 04:54 PM
A few weeks ago I took a trip to the IMA and photographed a large number of their painting to study closer later at home and spent about 8 hours at the museum in general. The biggest problem I had was that the many of the photos came out darker or lighter then they were in real life.
It has been a long time since I experimented with using a true primary pallet (CYM) but if memory serves me right I think I hand to choose slightly different hues to make it work.