View Full Version : Preparing birch panels
04-29-2001, 02:14 PM
I recently had some 10"x12" birch panels cut and I mounted linen canvas on a few of them with Lineco glue. I've also heard about a translucent (resin?) material you can cover the birch with and paint on directly after it dries. Does anyone know what that is?
Also, anyone know of a size for raw linen other than rabbit skin glue? Something a little more convenient to use, maybe?
04-29-2001, 05:31 PM
Originally posted by Robert:
Also, anyone know of a size for raw linen other than rabbit skin glue? Something a little more convenient to use, maybe?Thanks,
Rabbit skin glue is hard to beat, it has been around for a long, long time and is still the best size with raw linen. Remember you are attempting to protect the unprotected raw linen fibers from the acids in the oils of your pigmnets, like linseed oil !
Bunny glue is easy to make, water, bunny granules and a crock pot or baby bottle warmer, to keep it warm by not exceeding 135 degrees F. A while back I bought a new cheap crock pot for $6.99 and it does the job perfectly.
I guess if you are set in not doing this an acrylic imitation gesso grounds would work. The only problem I see is the flexible acrylic under the more rigid oil pigments. Keep the acrylic thin! Of course canvases are sold all the time with acrylic grounds and we paint over them with oil. I believe the acrylic would put up a adequate barrier from the oil pigments but keep it thin! Good luck. http://www.wetcanvas.com/ubb/redface.gifL
"Each artist must take inventory periodically and give himself an honest evaluation so that he can make the proper changes, rather than remain stagnant" ....NICOLAI FECHIN
04-29-2001, 06:22 PM
Thanks, Leopoldo. I agree - bunny glue's hard to beat. Just curious if anyone's stumbled across or discovered anything else that works well with linen.
Still interested in the clear polymer or resin that can be applied directly to the board and painted over. The natural finish of birch looks nice showing through a painting - or left unpainted. I've seen the effect but don't know the material used.
04-30-2001, 06:30 AM
Thanks, Dru. No, I haven't tried anything other than the linen yet - but I'll do shellac on a few of them. I've just gotten into doing my own supports and I'm experimenting with as many different sizes and grounds as I have time for. I probably need to shake the dust off that thick materials book I have...
04-30-2001, 06:57 AM
Hi, Dru beat me to it, but Bullseye varnish sold in any hardware store should do the trick. I am using the amber color but they make other finishes.
Painting the light reflecting from an object is different than painting the object
04-30-2001, 07:47 AM
I started using GoldenPaint's GAC 400...a RabbitSkin glue alternative...and have been happy with it.
And because of this latest discovery about support induced discoloration from masonite, when necessary,I've been using their 700.
For me, the GAC line is very interesting. http://www.goldenpaint.com/gac100s.htm#gac400
04-30-2001, 11:22 AM
Hi Guys http://www.wetcanvas.com/ubb/smile.gif
I was reciently working on some panels and was also wondering what was used as a clear finish for the wood..having seen the nice effect of the wood showing through the painting in places..in another thread Colin recomened that W.N. has a clear sizing product...I havent tried it yet so I cant comment about it
05-01-2001, 10:47 PM
For adhering linen to board, I use pure polymer medium. You have to sand the board first and get the surface quite fuzzy - both sides. I then coat the board with a thick coat of medium and lay the linen over it and roll it out with a rolling pin. I then put more medium over the top of the linen making sure it completely soaks the surface. Let dry - it will shrink some, but should adhere and be nice and flat. Then, I fold the edges over one at a time and glue them down again soaking the linen in the medium. Let the whole thing dry and then coat the entire board with several coats of gesso - again, both sides being sure to get the gesso into the folds on the back. Coating both sides also helps to straighten the board.
For absolute longevity, be sure to use pure polymer medium - Elmers glue will disentegrate after about 150 years because they add corn starch and other organics as fillers.
Hope that helps! http://www.wetcanvas.com/ubb/smile.gif
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