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vonorloff
02-13-2001, 11:56 AM
Window Lighting … a brief overview.

There are many advantages to window light, including direction of light. In many cases, especially at a north window, the light is perfect for portraits ... soft, even and directional. Because we’re under a roof, there is already a built-in overhead light subtractor. That means that our main light, the window, is not trying to compete with skylight and other major light sources.

Window lighting allows for the most complimentary light to fall on the subject’s face and body. What’s more, the window of opportunity is much longer. In fact, when you start looking for window light, you may begin reusing the same locations throughout the year. An ideal window location is ideal all year and good during most daylight hours.

You’ll want to find a window tall enough to allow the light to fall on your subject's face. If your window is too low, the subject’s face can begin to go dark as it extends into the shadows. The window need not face north, but you should avoid direct sunlight. An east window in the afternoon or a west window in the morning will often be a suitable location.

Remember that the window is your main light. Treat it as though it were in your studio, the big difference is that this main light is stationary, so subjects must be moved instead of the light in order to photograph different angles of the face. Move your subject farther from the camera for full face, closer for 2/3 face, and closer still for profile lighting. A little experimentation will bring about the desired effect.

A word on exposure: Expose for the shadow side of the subject’s face. This allows a full range of tones from highlight to shadow with detail in both. If necessary, use a reflector to fill the shadow side of the face when doing closeups. Be careful not to overfill or you’ll end up with flat lighting. Exposures will normally be slow (1/4 second or less), so use a tripod and cable release, and also the mirror lock up to avoid camera movement


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VonOrloff

-paul-
02-13-2001, 02:26 PM
interesting,
i've never tried indoor with window light before....i've always been outside with sunny conditions...as i dislike flash, but at the same time would like to try out studio lighting stuff......anyhow,
i'll be sure to try it.
i use a 35mm pentaxZ1-p.

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Everybody is an artist;
now, whether one choses to be referred to as one or not is another story...

spectru
02-13-2001, 10:39 PM
Move your subject farther from the camera for full face, closer for 2/3 face, and closer still for profile lighting.

Closer and farther from the camera? Did you mean window? Any chance of your posting photos to illustrate?


so use a tripod and cable release, and also the mirror lock up to avoid camera movement

The remote control for my brand new professional-level electronic marvel costs more than $100. I don't have one yet. Nor does it have a mirror lock-up. So much for modern advances.

vonorloff
02-14-2001, 10:21 AM
Originally posted by spectru:
[B]Move your subject farther from the camera for full face, closer for 2/3 face, and closer still for profile lighting.

Closer and farther from the camera? Did you mean window? Any chance of your posting photos to illustrate?
[/I]
B]

Yes, I'll work up a diagram for you and post it real soon.



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VonOrloff

vonorloff
02-14-2001, 01:11 PM
Originally posted by spectru:
Move your subject farther from the camera for full face, closer for 2/3 face, and closer still for profile lighting.

Closer and farther from the camera? Did you mean window? Any chance of your posting photos to illustrate?

.

<IMG SRC="http://www.wetcanvas.com/Critiques/lib/14-Feb-2001/Windowlight_diagram.jpg" border=0>

OK Here's a diagram which illustrates how to move the subject, not the camera or the light, for achieving good windowlight on the subject's face. Hope this helps.



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VonOrloff

spectru
02-14-2001, 09:05 PM
OOOooohhh. Now I understand.

Thanks.

spectru
02-14-2001, 09:12 PM
You are moving the subject across the window. Is this because the walls are "light subtractors"? (a term I had not heard before) You could move the camera to maintain the same distance between the subject and camera, coudn't you?

vonorloff
02-14-2001, 09:47 PM
Originally posted by spectru:
You are moving the subject across the window. Is this because the walls are "light subtractors"? (a term I had not heard before) You could move the camera to maintain the same distance between the subject and camera, coudn't you?

Yes, precisely. Very simple, isnt it? And yet most professional photographers dont understand it. Glad it was of help to you.

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VonOrloff

bluespade
02-16-2001, 11:13 PM
I'd love to have you do more diagrams and discussions of portrat lighting. Thanks!

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Doug
Blue Spade Productions
http://www.bluespade.com

spectru
02-17-2001, 08:14 PM
Children's portraits sounds good to me. I especially out of the studio, using simple lighting.

I'd also like a tutorial on general studio lighting. I'm sure I could buy a text on this. But it sems more usuable coming from the horses mouth.

vonorloff
02-18-2001, 12:53 AM
Originally posted by bluespade:
I'd love to have you do more diagrams and discussions of portrat lighting. Thanks!



Sure.
Any particular area?
How about children's portraits?

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VonOrloff

vonorloff
02-18-2001, 10:13 AM
Originally posted by spectru:
Children's portraits sounds good to me. I especially out of the studio, using simple lighting.

I'd also like a tutorial on general studio lighting. I'm sure I could buy a text on this. But it sems more usuable coming from the horses mouth.


Well, ok then. I'll put something together and we'll see how it goes. http://www.wetcanvas.com/ubb/smile.gif




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VonOrloff