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Author: Laura_Brito, Contributing Editor
| Setting up a studio can be a trying experience. The information I am providing will hopefully help you understand your needs and options before you invest too much money. There are a few elements that must be met before you can start working. These are:
VENTILATION - You need fresh air coming into your area and the fumes removed from your work area. Usually it is better to have a strong ventilation system vs a fan in your window. Usually a fan is not adequate, and if not designed for window use and properly installed, a fan can be unsafe. SAFE WORK AREA - This means good hoses, your propane outside, a concrete floor or fireproof floor, your torch attached to your workbench vs being loose, and a fire proof area with a fire extinquisher nearby! NECESSARY TOOLS - A Kiln for annealing, tweezers, a marvering pad, glass rods, mandrels to form beads on, bead release and a pick. SAFE TORCH SETUP - Your torch needs good fresh rubber hoses which do not leak, and it needs to be attached to the workbench for safety. EYE PROTECTION - Proper eye protection can prevent the loss of vision. The type of glasses are dictated by the different types of glass you work with. Eye protection will be discussed in depth further in the article. This article will focus on Studio Ventilation! Examples from several studios will show you a number of different types of setups that could be utilized in your studio.You can make your own choice depending on your needs and desires. |
| Ventilation is a necessity for a hot glass artist. It will protect your lungs, make it easier on your eyes, and protect your health. Many of the products we work with have lead, metals, and oxides in them. The byproducts of the torch, fumes from the propane and other gases are also a health hazzard if you do not have proper ventilation in your work area. Research has not reached a conclusion of how safe many of these byproducts are, so it is better to be cautious.
(Picture below is Laura Brito's Ventilation System as it was being installed. This is not finished in this picture but shows the tube going up and out the roof. The fan is a 350 cfm fan and we have two of these at two different stations in the workshop right now) |
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| My personal system consists of a large utility room fan unit that is rated 350 cfm. The unit cost me $85.00 at Home Depot. I purchased extra tubing ($15.00) to take it out of the roof and we have one of the whirlie gig appliances (about $20.00) on the roof to inhibit down drafts and keep water from seeping in. My setup is simple but it works well for me. I have tested it with a few items like a piece of copper foil, and it was sucked up and out instantly. The incense test is another good way to check the efficency of your ventilation system. You light the incense, sit it by your torch, and watch it to see how well your system takes out the fumes and air.
The only thing missing from my system is the baffle. This appliance prevents your exhaust from being released back into your work area. A baffle can be the deciding item in your system to make it sucessful or a failure. Some lampworkers even use cardboard for this purpose. A hole in the cardboard fits over the duct with three sides that extend to the work table. This confines the fumes and other toxic items allowing them to be funneled up and out of the room. You should never have a closed room with ventilation to the outside only. The air going out must be replaced with fresh air from a window, open door, or in my case an evaporative (swamp) cooler due to the heat in Tucson. The swamp cooler also keeps my work area comfortable. Below is LLuvia Brito working at her Torch |
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