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Author: Diane_Mcdonnell, Contributing Editor
| You will need to create a support for the pipe to slide through. Measure between the leg supports and cut a piece of your scrap wood to fit. While it's still square use a ruler and find the center by drawing a diagonal line each way. Because the legs on my stool are square I had to cut out a little square notch on each corner to get it to fit correctly. This can be seen in the photos for the next step. |  |
| Drill holes through the legs of the stool to attach the support you just made. Use a countersink bit if you have one. If you don't use a bit slightly smaller than the screw shank and drill through. Then using one slightly larger than the head of the screw drill just deep enough to sink the screw head. You can make a 'flag' from a piece of masking tape so you will know when to stop drilling.
Attach the support between the leg supports with wood screws long enough to go through the leg supports and into the shelf support. |  |
| Attach the floor flange to the back of the stool top using the short large headed screws. Make sure it is centered over the hole. You can slide the pipe through to align it if neccessary.
One side of the Male Adapter is threaded. Screw the threaded side into the flange as shown. You may need to use a pair of pliers or an adjustable wrench to tighten it. Slide the pipe into the end of the adapter as shown. I had to tap mine as it can be a little tight. |  |
| You're almost finished!
Using another scrap of wood make a small top the same size roughly as the top of the leg assembly. You need to mark the center and drill another hole in this one the same size as the pipe holes. Attach it to the top of the stool with countersunk wood screws. Slide the top you made down through the two holes in the pieces you have attached to the stool as shown. I used a 1 1/2" long piece of 3/4" steel rod. Mine was actually a threaded rod but anything will do as long as it's big enough that it doesn't fall down into the pipe. The flange on the other side creates a thin edge that stops it from falling through. This should only protrude slightly. Mine stands up about 3/8". The tops you make will sit on this and pivot around this little rod. |  |
| Cut some new tops to sculpt on from plywood. I'm sure you can purchase pre-cut wood circles or you can use square pieces of wood. I cut several sizes so I can work on several sculptures at one time by simply changing the tops. Drill a hole part way through each at the center as shown. It should only be deep enough to allow it to sit over the short steel rod without wobbling. It should revolved smoothly around it.
To adjust the height of your stand simply pull place the Eye Bolt through the copper pipe at the correct height. It may not be as fancy as the art stored types of stands but I'm happy with mine and it works perfectly! And I made it for way less! |  |
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| B i o g r a p h y | |
| Diane McDonnell is an avid artist working in many forms of sculpture, design, painting and fiber arts. Diane also has also been working in both traditional and non-traditional quilt making for more than 15 years. | |
| E-Mail: dianem555@msn.com Web Site: http://www.ArtHire.com/cgi-bin/ArtHire$EmplSJNDG | |
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