|
|
|
Channels:
|
Search for:
|
Author: Andrew_Gott, Contributing Editor
| Keeping your tools sharp isn't just a good idea, it is crucial to safe and efficient printmaking. Even brand new tools probably need some fine sharpening. They may have an edge on them, but they are likely to have been sharpened, not honed, requiring a bit of touch up before being put to efficient use. Dull tools have a tendency to slip rather than cut, resulting in mistakes and, worse yet, injury to the user. Sharpening tools and keeping them sharp isn't overly difficult, and the amount of time that you take doing it will pay for itself many times over.
|
| First, let's take a look at what you'll need to sharpen a tool. You will need a sharpening stone of some kind. There are basically three types available, oil stones, water stones, and diamond stones. Whichever type you choose, don't be afraid to buy a decent quality stone, they will last pretty much forever with decent care.
Oil stones are probably the most common. They are abrasive stones intended to be lubricated by oil when being used, as the name implies. They are the least expensive and most commonly available, and provide perfectly good results. Use a sharpening oil, or a general purpose oil, to lubricate them. They are available in many different grits, and also in double sided versions that offer a coarse side and a finer side. I recommend a double sided stone, with a coarse and medium grit (100/700 is a good combination and my preference). If you can only get one grit, go for a finer (700 or so). Another item that you should keep at hand is a leather strop. They come in handy when you are sharpening, to hone the tool to a fine edge, but they are also great to keep by your side while you are cutting. Running the tool over the strop every so often helps to keep the edge sharp, and will dramatically reduce the time between required sharpenings. A bit of stropping compound also comes in handy. I personally prefer water stones. They cost a little more, but I think that they are worth it. As the name implies, you use water to lubricate them rather than oil. Most of them are soaked in a 'bath' of water prior to use. I keep mine submerged in a Tupperware container all the time, so it is always ready to go. They are used in pretty much the same way as an oilstone. Like oilstones, they are available in many grits, I like a 800 and 4000 myself, it allows me to get a very fine edge on my tools. Also, since they don't use oil, the cleanup is a bit easier and you don't end up with oil on your hands, workbench, and blocks. Diamond hones are made with diamonds. They are generally the most expensive option, and also do a great job. They, too, are available in various grits. Some are used without lubrication, others with water; check the directions that came with yours. |
 | How to do it-
Gouges and 'V' tools These are commonly used with Linoleum and wood blocks. For the illustration, I used a 'V' gouge, similar to a Speedball #1 liner. Essentially, the technique is more or less the same for other types of blades, too. I am starting with a severely damaged tool, such as one that has been dropped or nicked. If yours isn't badly damaged - just dull - skip to step 4. 1) The badly damaged portion of the blade needs to be removed. This can be done with a coarse stone, or if you have access to one, a grinding wheel. Use a VERY light touch with the grinding wheel or it will grind your blade to nothing in a hurry. If you are using a stone, make sure you lubricate it well as is appropriate to the type of stone that you are using (oil or water) 2) Reshape the blade by dragging it in one direction, towards you, along the surface of the stone. Keep it at the same angle for each pull across the stone, the idea isn't to get a sharp edge, but to re-form the cutting edge to the shape it was BEFORE you dropped it. 3) The re-formed blade should look something like this. Remember, there is no sharp edge yet, it is blunt. 4) Begin to sharpen the blade by drawing it in one direction along the stone once again. You will want to hold it at about a 30-45 degree angle depending on the edge you are after (this is personal preference - some like a sharper angle). Keep the entire width of the cutting edge in contact with the stone to get an even edge. 5) A front view of the tool on the stone. It would be pulled AWAY from the viewer in this perspective. Note how the entire cutting edge is making contact with the surface of the stone. Do both sides of the cutting blade in the same manner. 6) Once both sides are sharp, it should look something like this. When you have the edge you want, run it over a leather strop block a few times to fine hone it. You can test the blade in a scrap piece of linoleum or wood, to make sure it 'behaves' as you want it to. You might need to fine-tune the edge - too dull and it won't cut easily - too sharp and it will tend to 'skip' along the surface a bit. Now you are all set- Until the NEXT time you drop it, that is... |
| I mentioned before that it is good practice to run the blade over a strop every so often while you are using it. When I am doing work on a linoleum or wood black, I strop it about every hour or so. This does wonders for keeping the blade in optimum working condition, and isn't tough to do at all. Just pull it in one direction along the strop at about the same angle you would if you were sharpening it on the stone.
Keeping your blades in tip-top shape will make your printmaking far more enjoyable and a lot safer. It will take some practice before you get it right, but it is well worth it. Remember, your printmaking tools will last at least a lifetime if you maintain them. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me or 'Join the Conversation' and post to the forum thread. Happy printing! |
| A few resources on the web-
http://www.woodcraft.com A great source of sharpening equipment |
| Quick Jump: [ 1 ] | ||||
| B i o g r a p h y | |
 |
I am a Part time artist and Full time merchant marine officer, living in Tarpon Springs, FL. A self- taught artist, my primary interests are in the printmaking, drawing, and encaustic fields, but I am also a Blacksmith, and have dabbled in virtually all types of media at one time or another. |
| E-Mail: AGott26909@aol.com Web Site: http://www.agott.com | |
