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Author: Mary_Lockwood, Contributing Editor
 | This photograph shows a different angle of those first wraps to better illustrate the angle of the stringer and the way the wraps build up next to each other.
If you noticed the small wrap of clear near the end of the mandrel and wonder what it is for, I always do that to make sure there is no scumming from any sort of sediment or roughness at the end of the stringer. |
| Once you've done your initial wrap, proceed in the same way across the bead surface until you reach the mandrel on the other side. At this point your bead should look like the one to the right. |  |
 | You can repeat this process as many times as you'd like. If it is for your final encasing and you want it to be thicker, just melt the initial encasing down until it's flat, and put another layer over it. If you are going to continue with a design, such as I have in this photograph, please note that I've encased the barrel of lapis blue, added my flowers on top of that, and encased over the plunged florals again with the clear. |
| When melting in your layer of encasing, do not rapidly spin the bead in a super hot flame. If you do this, you could possibly be trapping air in the channels made between your wraps of glass.
Instead, heat from one side of the bead to the other while slowly turning. This 'chases' any air trapped between your wraps of clear and lets them escape. Once you get the feel for wrapping the glass, you'll learn to remove trapped air while melting it all in. |
| The following are some examples of my encased beads, made using the method in this article. I hope this tutorial will be of help to you! Thanks for reading! ~~Mary |
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