|
|
|
Channels:
|
Search for:
|
Author: Marty_C, Contributing Editor
| A recurring discussion on many WetCanvas! forums involves the best surface to paint on - canvas, masonite, MDF, paper, illustration board, etc. - and the best methods of preparing the surface. Canvas is a popular choice for many reasons - tradition, weight, longevity are but a few - and can be glued to hardboard, stretched onto a frame, or pinned to a wall, and can be prepared in a number of ways for different purposes.
Since canvas surface weave annoys many painters, I'll be focusing on a particular style (gallery wrap) and surface preparation (eggshell finish). This technique will help to overcome the surface weave problem. I am not an expert carpenter and will be sharing the simple method that works best for me. |
| The first step in the process is to make a frame to stretch the canvas over. You will need some tools for this as listed below, but the work can be achieved with very simple tools.
1. Miter saw - this can be a powered saw, a purpose made hand saw or a saw with a miter box capable of doing a 45 degree cut. A hand miter saw and powered miter saw are pictured. 2. Router - this is not essential but is useful in creating a sharp edge profile on the timber frame. A hand or power plane would also work, as would gluing some half round edging or similar to the timber. The router is in the foreground. 3. Stretching pliers - needed for pulling the canvas tight. 4. Staple gun. 5. Wood glue. 6. Screwdriver, electric or hand. 7. Tape measure. 8. Measuring square. 9. Pencil 10. Masking tape. |
 |
 |
| The preferred wood is pine as it is light and easy to use. Check for straightness with very few or no knots when selecting the timber. The amount of timber will depend on the size frame you wish to build. One advantage of the gallery wrap style is that large paintings are easy to hang as they require no additional frame other than the stretcher and so are relatively light. I use 40 by 20mm (1.5 by 0.75in) pine for the frame and 65 by 30mm (2.5 by 1.25in) pine for the corner wedges, cut at a 45 degree angle. |
 |
| Now that you have your timber, let's start shaping and cutting. The 30 by 65mm (2.5 by 1.25in) is cut into wedges (see the photo). I bought a 1.8m (72in) length and cut about 30 wedges for future frames. On the 40 by 20mm (1.5 by0.75in) pine, I routed a bevel shape on all pieces (use a vice to hold the wood) and then I used a shaper head to create the profile seen in the photo. You could use a planer or glue on some appropriate edging to achieve the same end. The very narrow tip is the only wood contacting the canvas on the front of the frame and makes for a hinder free painting surface. |
 |
| Using your miter saw, cut a 45 degree angle on your framing pine. Measure along the desired length and mark off your next cut. Make the reverse 45 degree cut. Mark this piece as your template for your length piece for the frame. Do the same for your width piece, marking it as the width template. Put the measuring tape away and use your template and square to measure the lengths required - this eliminates measuring errors. I usually make up six frames at a time and use the two templates for all measuring. |
| Quick Jump: | ||||
|
Google Sponsored Links
|
Sponsored Links
|
Featured Links
|
 |
||
|
||
Copyright © 1998-2009, F+W Media, Inc. All Rights Reserved. FA |
||
