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Author: Sami_Matilainen, Contributing Editor
| Step 4: Mount the box on the table
This is important if you follow my basic design. Turn the table upside down on the floor. Next place both the glass and plexiglass into the hole the way they are supposed to be once the light table is ready. The plexiglass should now be on top. Now place the box so that the bottom is facing upwards. Remember to place the box so that the front side is facing in the right direction on the table. Now all you have to do is fasten the box with angle irons and screws. |
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| In this photograph you can see the angle irons that hold the box in place. You can also see the switch and the screw lid that is used to change the fuses.
Next, turn the table around gently without harming the glass. Leave the glass and plexiglass on the floor turning only the table around. Pick up the glass plates from the floor and place them, this time plexiglass underneath, in the hole. If you did this correctly they should now be perfectly alligned and in level with the rest of the table top. If not you can put little pieces of felt or paper in the corners and try to balance the glass making sure it doesn't tilt. The procedure for applying the seam of silicone is most likely explained on the tube. Read and follow the directions, and do not fuss with it. Once the silicone hardens it is difficult to remove. |
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| Congratulations. Your brand new light table is finished. Plug it in... |
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| ...and start drawing! |
| Alternative design: The light box
With small alterations to the light table design you could build the simple yet functional light box instead. The light box takes up less space and is a lot easier to build as well. Note: The measurements given for the glass plates are the maximum allowed size. I recommend making them smaller, approximately 535x385mm in size, and using the silicone to fill the gap as seen in the side view. This way you have a marigin for error of about 2 mm on every side. The alternative to using silicone is shown below. If the strip-board is bigger you should adjust the size of the plates accordingly, but do not use a strip-board that is too thick or your glass plates won't have much support from the box. The alternative design, in my opinion, is not as good as the one using silicone. You can not use paper that is larger than the light box, and if there is slightest gap you are guaranteed to get dirt in the light box(especially if you use an eraser). Be aware that this design requires a higher degree of accuracy when it comes to getting the corners in a 90° angle. Read Steps 0 to 2 above for details on how to set up the light box. |
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| B i o g r a p h y | |
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Sami Matilainen is a student at the Royal Institute of Technology in Sweden where he studies computer science. His medium of choice is the digital medium, using Photoshop as his main tool, but from time to time he revisits his "roots" and work with aquarelle and pen & ink. In his spare-time he like to watch cartoons, and this interest has inspired him to produce his own short animated film which is entitled "Project Lullaby". |
| E-Mail: asymmetric_art@bredband.net Web Site: http://www.asymmetric-art.com | |
