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Author: Sami_Matilainen, Contributing Editor
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| This diagram shows the 4x15W lights, the igniters, the electromagnetic ballasts (for 30W each), as well as the fuse and the switch.
Some of you might be able to build it simply by looking at the blueprints above. I have included step by step instructions that should be fairly simple to follow for those that need the information. These general instructions will make it possible to implement your own design ideas. |
| Step 0: The planning
I can not stress this enough: Make sure you have every detail and every step of the process well thought out before you start, or you might end up with something that doesn't work in regards to the design and functionality intended for the object. This piece of advice goes for any project wich involves building or creating something. If you choose to go exactly by my tutorial you should be pretty much in the clear. If you choose to do something different you should double check all measurements, and make sure you have enough marigin for the lamps and electric fittings. The clearance under the table should allow enough room for your legs to comfortably fit underneath with the box in place. |
| Step 1: The "box"
Start by drilling holes in the boards where needed as shown in the blueprints for the light table and the light box blueprints (below). Remember to drill holes for the screws as well. You may need to carve out some of the holes to fit the switch and the fuse container. This is a bit tricky, and it is easier if you have the proper tools of course. It can be done with just a knife and a lot of patience as well. If you don't want to go through the fuss of carving out rectangular holes in the boards you could buy a different kind of switch and fuse that require a circular hole. Remember that the thickness of the board is a factor which you must take into consideration when buying a switch that is to be fitted into a board. With this in mind it might be good idea to choose a board that is a bit thinner, but this will make the box less sturdy. An even simpler solution is to put the switch directly on the main power cord. You could build the fuse container into the box. If you do decide to be aware that you can not change the fuse when needed unless you are prepared to dissasemble the box every time, or build in some kind of door feature. This is an acceptable design solution, because I don't think you should have to change fuses very often. The light box my father built nearly 20 years ago has never had the fuses changed. You should not have to worry about changing the lights either if you go with flourescent lights. When building the rectangular box remember that the inside measurements must be big enough to fit the electric fittings and lamps. The outside measurements should be aproximately the same as the glass or plexiglass. If it is 1-2 mm larger it will not affect the function of the box. Make sure you get the corners 90°, and that the box does not "tilt" when placed on a flat surface. Once you have the sides of the box ready you can cut a rectangular bottom plate of plywood. Plywood is expensive, but is one of the best materials to use. You can use any material you would like to, but remember that the bottom has to be quite thick, at least 8-10 mm, so the screws that fasten the electrical fittings don't stick out underneath. That might be bad for your knees when sitting by your light table. Drilling a few holes in the bottom plate will allow air circulation. If you want to paint the box this stage of the project is a good time to do so. Remember that the inside of the box might get quite hot due to the lamp(s) inside so use a paint that can handle extreme temperatures. |
| Step 2: Setting up the electrical fittings
This is somewhat difficult to show, but if you know about electrical wiring all you need are the blueprints of the electrical fittings I have provided. If you choose a different lampsize/type you'll have to figure it out yourself how to set it up. List of the electric components I used for my light table: ELFA article numbers are in parenthesis. You can go to http://www.elfa.se for more details and pictures of the actual components. 1. (4) Fluorescent tube lights Osram L15W/41-827 (33-533-31) 2. (2) Electromagnetic ballasts Philips BTA 30L31 (33-812-66) 3. (4) Igniters Osram ST151 (33-541-31) 4. (4) Igniter stands (33-810-84) 5. (8) Tube light stands for G13 sockets (33-810-50) 6. (1) FKUX power cord (55-288-15) 7. (1) DRKX power cord 2-leader, round PVC (55-602-97) 8. (1) Power socket 10A 230V (43-202-97) 9. (1) Fuse container (33-170-05) 10. (1) Switch (35-029-60) 11. Fuses 1A 5x20 mm (10-pack) (33-105-54) If you can find a switch and fuse container that uses screws to fasten the power cords then by all means go with that instead. The types listed above need to be soldered, and if you have no experience soldering this can be a bit tricky. You'll find all the apropriate screws needed to fasten the electric fittings onto the box at your local hardware store. Note: This system works with the Swedish standard 230V 50Hz AC. If you live in a country with a different standard this system might not function as it should. The power socket listed is a standard which fit the power outlets in Sweden, but might not fit the power outlets in your country. Warning: If you don't know exactly what you are doing you should not set the electric fittings yourself. You could end up blowing your components, or even killing yourself. Electricity is something that should be respected due to the dangers of working with it without the required knowledge. Be aware of the rules and regulations for electric devices present in your country before starting any project that requires electrical fittings. This is a photo of how my design looked right before putting the glass on. |
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| Step 3: Cuttin' a hole into your table
The first thing you need to remember is that this should be done after you have the box finished. You use the box as a template, and then add 1-2 mm so you get a loose fit for your box in the hole. The box should drop through the hole smoothly. Also try out the glass or the plexiglass. They should leave a gap of about 2-3 mm when held over the hole (Don't drop the glass through the hole! You will want to have someone helping you during this test for fit, or else you will risk breaking the glass. Secondly: you must know where to place the hole. This is a matter of taste and how you will be using the light table. Think about how you sit when you draw or work. Place the hole in a position so that when you use the light table you do not have to change your position. This is the main advantage of converting your existing working table into a light table. |
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